March 9, 2021

Best Climbing Headboard

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Editor's Choice

TRANGO Climbing Hangboard

Overall Rating: 5/5

The TRANGO prodigy hangboard is an amazing hangboard in terms of functionality and durability. The flexible main edges progressively become smaller towards the climbing hangboard exterior. 

Metolius Wood Grips Delux II

Overall Rating: 4.5/5

Metolius hangboard is among the most affordable wood hangboards on the market. This fantastic climbing hangboard is a good option for the climber looking to purchase a high-quality hangboard under a budget.

Yaniro Power Hangboard

Overall Rating: 5/5

The Yaniro Power climbing hangboard is ideal for strong climbers looking to advance in their climbing. With the wide variety of holds it has, no other hang board we tested is on this climbing hangboard's level.

Are you in the climbing market for a high-quality hang board? You're in luck; here, we will review the best climbing hangboards in the market that will ideally meet your climbing needs.

Here is our list of the 5 best climbing hangboards.

List of the 5 Best Climbing Hangboards

#1 TRANGO Rock Prodigy Training Center Hangboard

The TRANGO prodigy hangboard is an amazing hangboard in terms of functionality and durability. The flexible main edges progressively become smaller towards the climbing hangboard exterior. 

The tiny dots at the back offer solid reference points. However, this is somewhat frustrating since the index finger has to work harder than the pinkie.

Nevertheless, this also means that specific advancement is as simple as shifting the positioning of your hands. Besides the main edges, the TRANGO Prodigy hangboard has several pocket combinations; a few pinch configurations, a pair of square-edge crimps, jugs, and slopers.

This climbing hangboard is perfect for all climbers. They can find a trainable hold for this climbing board which is incredible considering its size. The exceptional feature of this climbing hangboard is the two-piece approach.

Both pieces are mounted independently. Typically, mounting takes more time and caution, though it did allow us to customize body placement and preference. This feature is an appreciated bonus from the RPTC. Since it is divided into two, we mounted it utilizing the flexible "French Cleat" mechanism.

On the other hand, the RPTC does have some drawbacks. The texture is quite rough, especially when it's new. Even though the hold assortment is good, it is only good enough for the stronger climbers. We tried it out with an advanced climber, and they still had to reduce the weight they had carried to use the RPTC comfortably.

If you're not a vigorous climber, this board might not work at its best. It is coupled with a pulley system. But even if the RPTC has a few drawbacks, it is still the best all-around climbing hangboard in the industry. Coupled with a consistent training routine, it is a remarkable tool.

Quick Facts:

  • Dimensions 9.1 by 12.1 inches per side;
  • Weight: 9.86 pounds;
  • Material: Polyester Resin;
  • Two-piece construction allows for width adjustment; 
  • Texture allows for repeatable finger location and placement.

Pros:

  • Plenty of holds making this board the best all-in-one board;
  • Advancement-focused construction remains relevant as you progress;
  • The two-piece construction;
  • Durable and safe hold angle and sizes.

Cons:

  • A bit expensive.

#2 Metolius Wood Grips Delux II

This climbing hangboard is among the most affordable wood hangboards on the market. This fantastic climbing hangboard is a good option for the climber looking to purchase a high-quality hangboard under a budget.

With various jugs and considerable edges for novice and intermediate climbers to use, the Metolius Wood Grips climbing hang board also has a streamlined, proportioned one-piece construction. The first row has two large jugs and a pair of average-angle slopers.

The row at the middle has a wide array of 1-inch-deep slots and edges. The holds on the last row are slightly shallow at � inches deep. The Metolius Wood Grips climbing hang board is made from alder wood which is somewhat slicker than plenty of hangboard surfaces. Additionally, it will significantly test your contact strength.

When we tried it out, it worked perfectly for slippery rocks such as polished granite or limestone. If you're a beginner climber, this will proficiently build your finger strength.

Quick Facts:

  • Dimensions 24 by 6.2 inches;
  • Material: Alder wood;
  • Streamlined, symmetrical construction;
  • Board comes with a training guide and mounting tools.

Pros:

  • Quite affordable;
  • Durable;
  • Compact design for swift mounting in small spaces;
  • The construction is ideal for novice and intermediate climbers.

Cons:

  • It doesn't have small pinches.

#3 Metolius Simulator 3D

The Metolius hangboard has an attractive and ergonomic design and is perfect for all climbers. Rather than a flat base, its construction is slightly curved. When hanging underneath this climbing hangboard, you marginally pull it in rather than straight down.

Also, the Metolius Simulator 3D hangboard is slightly ergonomic than most hangboards we've tested. Besides, the width allows for easy hanging. While this climbing hangboard doesn't have pinches, the hold variety is robust, though they are biased towards intermediate climbers. 

It has three large jugs, and we found most of the pockets and edges to be relatively deep. Typically, this is advantageous for climbers situated in the strike area since the Simulator's progression is intuitive and steady.

Metolius climbing hangboards usually come with a wide gamut of training resources, and the simulator 3D is no exception. It comes with gear that's ideal for beginners. Elite climbers might find the Simulator's holds too huge.

Quick Facts:

  • Dimensions 28 by 8.75 inches;
  • Weighs: 12 pounds;
  • Made of polyester resin;
  • Symmetrical construction;
  • Tapered board;
  • It comes with mounting tools and a training guide.

Pros:

  • Plenty of hold depths and sizes;
  • Impressive value;
  • Durable;
  • Beautiful and ergonomic design.

Cons:

  • It is quite huge, meaning it takes up plenty of space.

#4 So iLL Iron Palm Hangboard

The iLL Iron Palm Hangboard is an ideal middle-level hangboard. It has a simple construction, and there are wood and urethane options. The edges are not relatively thin; therefore, they might not meet every professional climber's requirements.

Though, if you're searching for a dependable climbing hangboard with pinches and edge widths, this is the perfect purchase. Shaped by Jason Kehl, the infamous professional climber, this climbing hangboard features an exceptional design.

You can buy the Urethane option in seafoam and pink colors, and two ornate dragons adorn the huge edge. The Iron Palm's hangboard other remarkable feature is the two considerably bulging slopers that offer this climbing hangboard its unique look.

The slopers are constructed to be good enough for middle-level climbers to utilize, though they're bulbous enough to enhance contact strength purposely. We found that it was perfect for sloper-heavy situations such as Horse Pens 40.

Quick Facts:

  • Dimensions: 27 by 11.5 by 4 inches;
  • Made of wood or Urethane;
  • Weighs 9 pounds;
  • It has four varying edge sizes;
  • Several pinch sizes;
  • Huge, spherical slopers.

Pros:

  • Ideal for middle-level climbers;
  • A wide array of edges;
  • Allows the climber to train crimps, slopers, pinches, and slopey crimps;
  • Secure mounting thanks to the well-positioned screw holes.

Cons:

  • Not suitable for elite climbers due to the lack of ultrathin edges.

#5 Yaniro Power Hangboard by Atomik

The Yaniro Power climbing hangboard is ideal for strong climbers looking to advance in their climbing. With the wide variety of holds it has, no other hang board we tested is on this climbing hangboard's level.

It helps you challenge your climbing skills. What's more, the meticulousness in every single grip's design provides the perfect level of difficulty. Regardless of being made from polyester resin, the Yaniro Power Hangboard is easy on your skin.

Also, it features impressive texture, even better than some wood hangboards. Even though we recommend it for stronger climbers, it might not be ideal for people who have not tried climbing in the 5.12 range.

It's not that climbers who have reached the 5.10 range can't utilize this climbing hang board, but individuals who are 5.11 already or more will benefit more from it.

The Yaniro Power Hangboard is the biggest climbing hang board we've tested so far, and it is relatively wider than the average climbing hang board. This makes it more comfortable for your shoulders and elbows.

Because of its large and wide design, the mounting alternatives are restricted. Nevertheless, this is a superb training board to help push you even when climbing at a high height.

Quick Facts:

  • Dimensions: 29 by 9 inches;
  • Material: Polyester resin;
  • It has a large and wide design;
  • Amazing texture;
  • Multiple holds.

Pros:

  • Ideal for professionals;
  • Impressive texture;
  • Excellent ergonomics;
  • Greatly designed holds. 

Cons:

  • Not suitable for beginners or intermediate level climbers.

How to Choose the Right Hangboard

Choosing the right climbing hangboard can be quite intimidating, which is why we will explain in detail how to choose the right one. Read on to find out more.

1) Purchase a board that meets your climbing needs and capabilities

The perfect climbing board for you is supposed to have multiple holds that you can't grip and a few you can hold on to. If you can hang on to the holds for more than 30 seconds, you are not accumulating a lot of power.

Typically climbing hangboards are designed to boost finger power and gather strength. Go for one that you can only hold on to for not more than 10 seconds.

Also, it should feature one that you cannot hang on to minus a foot dab. Several slopers and jugs are good to warm up and also useful when you're finishing your workout. 

2) Material

Climbing hang boards are made using different materials, and here they are:

2.1) Wood

A hangboard made of wood has a few advantages, such as soft texture and reduced friction. This makes it gentler against your skin than most polyurethane and polyurethane ones.

However, when using these hangboards, avoid using excess chalk since, over time, it accumulates on the wood pores resulting in the creation of an undesired sticky layer. To prevent this, ensure you wipe it often using warm water and a clean rug.

Though wood hangboards do come with several drawbacks, they do not have a wide variety of holds. Most wooden hangboards do not feature pinches. But, during the warm weather, wooden hangboards keep the heat for a longer time translating to poorer friction or, at times, a warmer workout session.

2.2) Polyester resin

Most climbing holds are usually made of polyester resin. The advantage of hangboards made from this material is that they come in different and interesting designs and hold options. Typically, resin hangboards have more fascinating pinches and slopers, as well as rounded edges.

However, resin boards have a few disadvantages, one of them being that the texture is not friendly on the skin. Mostly this depends on the finish used by the manufacturer. While resin will never splinter, it will chip after some time.

2.3) Polyurethane

Polyurethane hangboards are almost the same as those made from resin though polyurethane will not chip as easily as resin. However, they have a texture that's not gentle on your skin.

Polyurethane hangboards tend to break down under any weather, and thus it's a poor selection for a hangboard that will be used outside. However, it is more durable than resin-made climbing hangboards.

Best Climbing Headboards

3) A wide array of holds 

Having a climbing hangboard with multiple holds does not make it the ideal option. It should have a few difficult holds and a nice variety of difficult pockets and edges, hard to hang onto.

Additionally, it should have at least three holds featuring reduced depths. Our testers liked having at least a pair of jugs and slopers to start with. Additionally, pinches are handy in training and whole-hand potent.

3.1) Edges and crimps

These are basically fingerboard's training bread and butter, and it's what climbers are supposed to concentrate on when buying a climbing hangboard.

Go for one with small edges; they might be intimidating at first, but after a few weeks, you'll manage to hold onto them. Also, look for marginally-rounded edges since they are less harsh on your fingers.

3.2) Pockets

These are great for training since they considerably increase the pressure across the fingers, leading to more effective strength gains. Similar to edges, having a reliable progression of pocket coupling is more crucial than fancy jugs or pinches since they allow for a more effective workout session.

Without a doubt, your fingers will touch the pocket sides and offer you more contact area and friction, therefore relatively increasing the holding strength and making the holds manageable.

3.3) Slopers

Slopers are ideal when warming up or finishing your workout, though you shouldn't really concentrate on them since they are a small portion of your workout routine.

On the other hand, a long time on your fingerboard and slopers can result in forearm fatigue. One pair of slopers is enough though two pairs are nicer to heat things up.

3.4) Pinches

Even though pinches are not a necessary feature, they add to the various holds on the climbing hangboard. We urge climbers to buy a hangboard with dedicated pinches instead of attempting to create them. If you're looking for a pinch-dedicated climbing hangboard, go for the So ILL Iron Palm.

4) Difficulty level

When looking for a climbing hangboard, the range of difficulty begins somewhat high, and there are no "simple" climbing hangboards in the market. The beginner range stands at 5.10+ to about 5.11, which goes up from there to intermediate and elite levels.

5) Mounting options 

Climbing hangboards are different in so many ways. Having a larger hangboard translates to a wide variety of holds. On the other hand, a smaller board can be useful if you have an open mind. You can mount your board on a piece of pre-cut plywood, which you will drill into your wall. 

5.1) Hole-free mounting

You can use a pull-up bar to mount your climbing hangboard if you live in a less spacious home or you're not willing to drill holes on the wall.

Climbing Hangboards FAQs

1) What is a climbing hangboard?

A climbing hangboard is equipment that serves as a hold for a climber to work out and build body strength, even if you cannot manage to go to the crag.

2) How to install a climbing hangboard?

You install your climbing hangboard by fastening it properly and utilizing wall studs or the door frame as the anchor. Attaching it to a wall will be safe enough to support your body.

3) How to use a climbing hangboard?

To use a climbing hangboard, hang from the board's holds with the shoulders and elbows engaged. Ensure to bend the elbows slightly. Also, use an open-handed position. Do not use full crimp positions since they could cause injury in the pulley and tendon tissues. Read our full guide to crimping climbing technique.

4) How to get your fingers stronger for a rock climbing hangboard?

To get your fingers stronger, start with some pull-ups and hangs on the biggest holds on your climbing hangboards to warm them up. Do a few long hangs as well before starting the short hangs on marginally tricky holds. Play with your hangboard in this way for 10 to 20 minutes.

Conclusion

We hope this detailed review has helped you find the best climbing hangboards in the market. The TRANGO rock prodigy is our top pick since it is durable and has plenty of holds. 

Also, it is ideal for all levels of climbers, and the two-piece design is impressive! Well, there you have it, the best climbing hangboards you can buy.

Our #1 Product Recommendation in the Best Climbing Hangboards Category

About the author 

Bernice

Bernice often jokes that she is better at climbing than walking. With avid parents of climbing, her first encounter with the high vertical rock walls was at the age of one. Her favorite style of climbing is bouldering.

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