by Brad

April 29, 2021

Five Ten Anasazi Blanco Review

Our review of the Five Ten Anasazi Blanco climbing shoe will reveal one simple truth; that it is a high-performance shoe ideal for technical sport.

This climbing shoe is extremely aggressive, and it's actually the most aggressive footwear in the Anasazi line. It is a high-end climbing shoe with superior edging ability. Additionally, the heel is designed for effortless heel hooking. 

After testing it, we were surprised at how excellently this climbing shoe performed on vertical and steep terrain, regardless of having a moderate downturn. What's more, they were comfortable and featured a decent amount of sensitivity.

What we like:

  • The Blanco excels in technical edging.
  • The interior is comfy and soft.
  • It has a supportive last.

What we don't like:

  • Reduced sensitivity on steep terrain.
  • It takes a lot of time to lace them up. 

Five Ten Anasazi Blanco Feature Highlights

The Blanco is incredibly stiff, has a high tension double heel rand and super sticky C4 rubber. It excels at standing on tiny edges, and torqueing into micro cracks.

Anasazi Blanco Тое

Feature Toe Box

The toe box of the Blanco shoe is relatively asymmetric, just short of flat, with a somewhat spherical toe box. This climbing shoe's supreme edging ability depends on how much weight the user focuses on the toes.

The heel rand is highly tense, and this, combined with the rigid midsole, translates to stiffness and stability. The latest version of this climbing shoe has a thermoplastic midsole. This is handy in adding to its well-known rigid platform. As a result of all these features, this shoe is a beast when it comes to edging. 

The knife-precision of the big toe, which is rather pointy, makes it perform impressively on narrow pockets and minor nubbins. Indeed this is a shoe that specializes in edging, engineered for technical sport. 

It's hard to go for a climbing adventure that only depends on edging; thus, when it's time to stick a few pockets or cracks, this shoe will have your back. However, we felt that it was somewhat uncomfortable. The rubber on the shoe's front develops a handy minor toe rand when penetrating and maneuvering toe hooks and jams.

Anasazi Blanco Heel

Feature Heel

The Blanco, just like the other climbing shoes in the Anasazi line, has a heel with a tensioned rand. What's more, this climbing shoe features more tension than other Anasazi shoes.

For this reason, the Blanco is a high-performance shoe despite the fact that it is slightly downturned. While it can at times be challenging to put them on, once you're in, it becomes shockingly comfortable climbing shoes

The Blanco performs exceptionally well in small holds, thanks to the rand that focuses your weight inside the toe box. This rand is quite handy since it makes the shoes perform well even without laces. We felt that it was a decent bonus. 

The Blanco climbing shoe is quite a handful; it would be best if you tried them out before making a purchase. Upon the heel being supported in the cup, we found there was minimal motion when utilizing random heel hooks in the tufas. On the other hand, it can be a bit uncomfortable for frequent heel hooking.

Anasazi Blanco Rubber-2

Feature Rubber

The Stealth C4 rubber compound is considered to be Five ten's most nifty rubber delivering unmatched grip. For this reason, it is integrated into most of their approach and climbing shoes. It is sticky and soft with a lot of friction and still maintains its durability over a long time.

Additionally, the Blanco holds its edging ability for a long. This rubber is functional on all rocks and almost all textured walls. So how does the Blanco remain so versatile? By blending the tacky C4 rubber with a rigid midsole. This leads to an excellent edging platform that does not sacrifice tackiness.

The shoe is also made utilizing polyester, meaning it is durable but not as much as other materials. It does deliver an above-average resistance to wear, and the fibers don't wear quickly. Furthermore, the material is resistant to shrinking and wrinkles and is easily washable

Since polyester is not quite breathable, the Blanco has tiny perforated holes to increase the shoe's breathability, which helps to keep the feet from sweating and smelling after long climbing experiences. The lining is made of synthetic material, which helps maintain this climbing shoe's shape and fit. However, it does stretch slightly

Additionally, the lining also restricts the shoe's breathability the same way the polyester in the upper does. However, the lining adds to the softness and comfort of wearing this climbing shoe.

Feature Comfort and Fit

The Blanco climbing shoe features plenty of rigidity and tension, which comes at a price; less comfort when new. A bit of sensitivity and comfort is sacrificed to achieve the distinguished edging capability. We would, at times, remove them between pitches, boulders, and routes. The Five Ten Anasazi Blanco is a narrow shoe, but the toe box is spacious enough to accommodate various foot shapes. This is thanks to the soft tongue and interior fabric. 

Even though the break-in period was uncomfortable, it was worth it. The closure mechanism of the Blanco climbing shoe is laced, which allows you to adjust as much as possible to the shape and fit of your liking. This adds to precision when climbing. The Blanco has a sleek appearance due to the welded build, which keeps the shoes and the laces in perfect condition. 

Furthermore, Five Ten have also placed all the appropriate stitching far from possible hot spots, which is impressive. In summary, this is a comfy shoe, compared to more high-performance shoes like the La Sportiva Miura. Nevertheless, they are performance climbing shoes and thus must be fitted correctly. Downsize them by half or one shoe size from your usual street shoe size.

Excels at Standing on Tiny Edges, and Torqueing into Micro Cracks

The new Blanco has a thermoplastic midsole that is stronger and stiffer, increasing edging stability and control whilst also helping to prevent deformation, allowing the shoe to retain its shape and performance characteristics after hard, intensive use. Precise and powerful, this shoe is like no other when it comes to micro holds and edges, and the most insecure, untrustworthy, fickle footholds.

The Verdict

The Anasazi Blanco climbing shoe is ideal for trad or climbing on all rock types. It is designed as a highly aggressive climbing shoe that offers plenty of comfort with its thick sole and slightly downturned toe. This makes it good enough for vertical routes or adventures with edging or slabs. 

Also, it is handy for technical climbing issues like footholds, minor edges, and crack climbing. The Five Ten Anasazi Blanco climbing is for intermediate or professional climbers searching for a high-performance and flexible climbing shoe.

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About the author 

Brad

Brad is a professional climber in the discipline of traditional climbing. He often jokes that he can get a book to read during the long climbs. Of course, it always goes well with a good cup of coffee. Drinking coffee is his safer hobby.

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