May 4, 2021

Climbing Shoes Five Ten Dragon Review in 2023

by Roger

If you are a bouldering enthusiast and are looking for the perfect bouldering climbing shoes, then you are in the right place.

But before we get into the Five Ten Dragon Climbing Shoes Review, what are their pros and cons?

If you are into steep and technical bouldering, then the 5.10 dragon may be the right climbing shoes for you.

The Dragon has always been known to be the most aggressive and technical shoes that have been used by the best and most legendary climbers, the likes of Dave Graham.

The climbing shoes have been known to provide the best results even when faced with the most notorious and technical routes like the 8c+ hypnotized minds.

Its pervasiveness in high-level bouldering has only been paralleled perhaps by La Sportiva Solutions in the past decade.

5.10 Dragon is a newer and improved version of the previous, much-loved model and was adapted to suit the ever-evolving needs of futuristic and modern climbing. 

The climbing shoe has proven its worth countless times, especially on overhanging and steep terrains that require aggressive downturns to hook onto footholds.

Areas where sticky toe hooks are essential.

Our Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes review shares the knowledge I’ve gathered from using these climbing shoes in the past six months.

Let’s dive in and find out why the five-ten dragon climbing shoes might be what you’re looking for.

Table of Contents
Five Ten Dragon Review
Climbing Shoes Five Ten Dragon Review

What we like about Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes:

  • Great for various surfaces: Gritstone slabs, technical indoor roof climbs, and high-intensive compression boulders
  • Increased toe-hook capability
  • Sensitive toe pad
  • Great smearing ability

Last update on 2023-09-27 // Source: Amazon Affiliates

What we don’t like about Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes:

  • Less effective with crack climbing
  • Not ideal for vertical climbs involving small footholds

Five Ten Dragon Feature Highlights

The New Five Ten Dragon – there’s a reason this shoe is named after such an aggressive beast. 

Five Ten Dragon Feature Toe Box

To determine whether the 5.10 dragon climbing shoes were effective, I tested them on varying terrains like burly, heel-intensive compression boulders, Gritstone slabs, and technical indoor roof climbs fitted with critical toe hooks.

I learned through the experience that the shoes worked extremely well in different scenarios.

The rubber adapted into the shoe’s toe significantly increased the toe hook’s ability.

The shoes were also quite comfortable when standing on small pebbles and tinny footholds.

The shoes’ asymmetric shoelace design also made it easier and more comfortable to slap a massive toe patch, conveniently leaving reaches that extended right up to the bottom of the laces.

The toe patch was also quite sensitive and offered better protection.

The rubber added along with the lace closure system also made the eyelets sturdier and more durable, making them less likely to snap.

The only scenario that wasn’t very ideal was when I used them on long vertical climbs where more time was spent on small footholds.

Five Ten Dragon toe
Five Ten Dragon Toe Box

Last update on 2023-09-27 // Source: Amazon Affiliates

Five Ten Dragon Feature Heel

The Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes’ split sole design allows the rubber found in the toe and heel to have varying thicknesses making it easier to do technical climbs.

The shoes have an aggressive slingshot and are made of thick rubber that goes from the midsole to the heel.

However, the shoe’s thinner rubber surrounding the rand performs much better since it permits the heel to mold to your feet’ shape better than a thicker and more rigid rubber.

The heel’s technical design works well on spikes and heel smears.

Note: If you want the shoes to work better, you’ll have to wear them tighter and ensure that they fit snugly to force your heel down into the shoe.

Not doing this will result in the formation of dead space around your heel.

Five Ten Dragon Heel
Five Ten Dragon Heel

Last update on 2023-09-27 // Source: Amazon Affiliates

Five Ten Dragon Feature Rubber

5.10 Dragon climbing shoes use the stealth HF (High-friction), the softest rubber that’s great for overhangs where less weight is often applied to your feet.

The softer rubber is also excellent for providing friction, even in cases where lesser pressure is applied through the toes.

The softer rubber increases the toe’s smearing ability; however, this isn’t quite the pro, especially when you are faced with aggressive downturns.

The climbing shoes may also last a long time; however, this also depends on the owner, the type of walls they climb, and their footwork.

The shoe sole is also great for climbing because it wraps around it, covering most of the shoe’s upper part.

This provides more friction, which works better, especially if you are crack climbing. 

However, the softer sole makes you work your foot extra hard when twisting it into the cracks.

This leaves your feet more tired than they would have, especially if you were using stiffer-soled shoes.

Five Ten Dragon rubber
Five Ten Dragon Rubber

Last update on 2023-09-27 // Source: Amazon Affiliates

Five Ten Dragon Feature Comfort and Fit

The Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes contain a microfiber outer and inner fit with a soft towel-like tongue.

The microfiber inner and outer has a suede feel that’s breathable and odor resistant.

If you have wider feet, I would recommend that you go for the street fit; however, you could go for one size down if you have narrower feet.

The 5.10 Dragon shoes’ lace design allows for a varying range of width adjustments compared to Velcro designs, and my personal opinion is that the shoes would fit users with more arched feet than those with flatter feet.

The shoes don’t have a break-in period because of their synthetic microfiber material.

In this case, the break-in period is more about you becoming more comfortable with the shoe’s shape and design rather than the shoe molding to your feet.

This is great, especially if you find your feet comfortable from the word go.

Intended to be Fit Extremely Snugly to Achieve the Highest Level of Performance Possible

The updated “ultimate bouldering shoe” is back!

It keeps the same last but with some improvements and new features.

It now has a split sole, with the same thickness and stiffness in the front but with a soft midsole and thinner rubber in the heel combined with an updated heel shape.

This gives more flexibility and, therefore, better fitting into the arch.

Five Ten Dragon Climbing Shoes FAQ

What makes Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes stand out in the market?

Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes stand out in the market because of their exceptional sensitivity, precision, and grip.

They are designed using Stealth HF rubber, which provides unparalleled friction on both indoor and outdoor surfaces.

The shoes have a down-turned toe and a tight-fitting heel that provide excellent support and edging ability.

They are also known for their durability and ability to withstand harsh climbing conditions.

How does the Five Ten Dragon perform on different types of rock surfaces?

The Five Ten Dragon is known for its excellent performance on steep and overhanging rock surfaces, particularly on limestone and sandstone.

It features a downturned shape and a sticky rubber sole that provides superior grip and sensitivity on small edges and pockets.

However, it may not be as effective on a slab or vertical surfaces, as the aggressive shape may not allow for precise foot placement.

How does the Five Ten Dragon shoe design impact performance and comfort during climbing?

The Five Ten Dragon shoe design impacts performance and comfort during climbing in several ways.

The aggressive downturned shape of the shoe allows for more precise foot placement on small holds and edges.

The sticky rubber sole provides excellent grip and allows for better friction on the rock surface.

The asymmetric shape of the shoe helps to maintain a strong and stable position on overhanging terrain.

Additionally, the tensioned heel and toe box provides a secure fit and added support, which can reduce fatigue and increase comfort during long climbing sessions.

Overall, the Five Ten Dragon shoe design is optimized for performance and can help climbers to push their limits and achieve their goals.

What is the fit and sizing like for the Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes?

The fit and sizing for the Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes can vary based on personal preference and foot shape.

However, they are known to have a snug and precise fit with a pointed-toe box and aggressive downturned shape.

Some climbers recommend sizing down a half or full size from their street shoe size for a performance fit.

It is recommended to try them on in person or consult the sizing chart provided by Five Ten for the best fit.

How durable are the Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes, and what is their expected lifespan?

The durability of the Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes depends on the frequency and intensity of use, as well as the terrain and type of climbing.

However, they are generally considered to be durable and long-lasting due to their high-quality materials and construction.

The expected lifespan of the Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes can vary, but with proper care and maintenance, they can last for several years.

It is important to note that the rubber sole will eventually wear out with use and may need to be resoled to extend the lifespan of the shoes.

Are the Five Ten Dragon shoes suitable for both indoor and outdoor climbing?

Yes, the Five Ten Dragon shoes are suitable for both indoor and outdoor climbing.

What is the price range for Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes, and are they worth the investment for serious climbers?

The price range for Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes is typically around $150-$200.

Whether or not they are worth the investment for serious climbers depends on individual preferences and needs.

The Five Ten Dragon shoes are designed for high-performance climbing and are known for their precision and sensitivity.

They also have a stiff sole for edging and a downturned shape for steep or overhanging routes.

If these features align with a climber’s needs and preferences, then the investment may be worth it.

However, there are many other high-performance climbing shoes on the market with different features and price points, so it’s essential to research and try different options before making a decision.

How do the Five Ten Dragon shoes compare durability and longevity to other climbing shoe brands?

According to user reviews and expert opinions, Five Ten Dragon shoes are known for their durability and longevity, especially in terms of their rubber soles, which are made of Stealth C4 rubber.

This rubber is known for its high friction and wear resistance, making it a popular choice among climbers.

Compared to other climbing shoe brands, the Five Ten Dragon shoes are considered to be among the most durable and long-lasting options available.

To Summarize: Five Ten Dragon Review

Through the Five Ten Dragon climbing shoes Review, you’ll find out that this climbing shoe is a technical, modern, and aggressive shoe that offers excellent performance on toe hooks and steep terrains and also works quite well on cracks and slabs. 

These climbing shoes are great for intermediate to skilled climbers who are seriously attempting steep and technical climbs.

If you are a dedicated enthusiast and are looking to invest in your mountain climbing, it would pay if you bought one or two of the 5.10 Dragon climbing shoes.

Have fun climbing, and stay safe!

Last update on 2023-09-27 // Source: Amazon Affiliates

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Last Updated on March 23, 2023 by Roger

About the author


Roger was born into a family of climbers. As the youngest of his siblings, he was also the most ardent climber of them. Small and agile, he practiced climbing all day. Today, Roger teaches children how to climb the large rock walls safely.

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